Hammam Saffarin on Place Seffarine was built in the Marinid 1300s, probably for the coppersmiths whose workshops ring around the square. Its fuel came on the backs of donkeys: wood, shavings from the carpenters, olive pits from the olive presses, a system still in use into this century. The water was heated in two enormous brass cauldrons made in those same workshops. Under the domes: a cold room, a warm room, a hot room. Newlyweds light candles in a corner kept for them; new mothers come for a special massage. Specialists rank the hammam second only to the mosque in the old city.
Every visitor got four or five buckets of water. More, you paid. The fuel was leftovers. The water was the treasure.
A Finn throws that on the stones before anyone has said a word.
How many buckets does your sauna take?
Sources: Wikipedia, Hammam Saffarin and Place Seffarine (citing the scholarship on Fez's hammams); Wikipedia, Hammam, citing Sibley and Fadli 2009.
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